Combining via ferratas Giuseppe Olivieri and Gianni Aglio results in a long, direct route on the south side of the Tofana mountain group. This tour provides a challenging ascent through a high mountain environment with breathtaking views.
Summary
Grade: C/D, var D – view topo
Vertical: 580m ferrata, 1250m total
Time: 1h approach, 5h30min ferrata, 2h descent, 8h30min total
Access / Parking: 46.5327,12.0709 – Google Maps or any Android maps app
Start via ferrata: 46.5373,12.0742 – Mapy.cz or any Android maps app
Download gpx track
Map and photos
Access
A popular starting point for this tour is Rifugio Angelo Dibona, which you can reach by car. In high season, the parking lots near this hut can be full as early as 9 a.m., so plan accordingly. You can also leave your car in a few areas on the side of the access road, or you can spend the night at the hut to get an early start.
Another start is from Piè Tofana, taking two chairlifts to Rifugio Pomedes – see timetable and prices.
Approach to start
From Dibona hut, we hike east-northeast on path 421 to Rifugio Pomedes, then up to Forcella Pomedes, the upper station of the chairlift. From here, we keep following the signs to the cable start of the first via ferrata, Giuseppe Olivieri.
The route
We can see from the start the type of route we are climbing: few brackets, good rock, impressive views.
You can take a break at Punta Ana, which marks the end of the first via ferrata, or follow a few switchbacks until we reach the start of the second via ferrata, Gianni Aglio, where you can find another good spot for a break.
As part of the Gianni Aglio via ferrata, there is a more sporty, optional bidirectional section, graded D, leading to Torre Aglio.
The ascent ends at Tofana di Mezzo peak, which stands at 3244 meters.
Descent
From the summit of Tofana di Mezzo (3244 m), you can use the cable car to descend one section to Ra Valles station – check opening times and prices. You can buy a ticket directly at the mountain station Cima Tofana.
From Ra Valles you ascend 100m until you reach the entrance to Sentiero G. Olivieri (B), which you follow downwards to Rifugio Pomedes, and then continue to Rifugio Angelo Dibona, the starting point of the entire adventure.
Good to know
- Long tour combining two via ferratas, with several possible starts, exits and descent options.
- Pick a day with stable weather as you will be in a high alpine environment for many hours.
- Bring enough water.
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Video
Weather
Main sources
- bergsteigen.com (German)
- ferrate365.it – Giuseppe Olivieri
- ferrate365.it – Gianni Aglio
- we climbed the route on August 10, 2022