This long mountaineering tour from Vrata Valley to Triglav (2864m) is usually split in 2 days, with overnight at Triglavski dom na Kredarici (Kredarica hut) or a lower hut, such as Dom Valentina Staniča pod Triglavom. The tour via Prag route is considered the easiest from Vrata Valley, with Tominškova being harder and Plemenice-Bambergova the hardest.
Summary
Grade: A/B, 1 – view topo
Vertical: 1100m ferrata, 1900m total
Time: 3h approach, 4h30min ferrata, 4h30min descent, 12h total
Access / Parking: 46.4128,13.8467 – Google Maps or any Android maps app
Start via ferrata: 46.3904,13.8358 – Mapy.cz or any Android maps app
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Map and photos
Access
From Mojstrana village we drive South-West on Vrata valley, up to the paid parking before Aljažev hut (Aljažev dom v Vratih) and Šlajmerjev hut (Šlajmerjev dom v Vratih).
Ascent
The 1900m ascent can be broken down into 4 sections, with these approximate times and vertical distances:
1. hike Aljažev hut – Prag: 1h, 240m
This is a warm-up hike for what comes next. Notable waypoints on the way are the large carabiner shaped monument and the intersection with Tominškova route.
2. ferrata Prag: 3h, 730m
This section combines hiking with technically easy via ferrata, but with some exposed, unsecured passages. It is rated T4 on SAC Alpine Scale.
3. hike Prag – Kredarica hut: 2h, 570m
At the end of the Prag via ferrata we intersect the Tominškova route near Begunjski studenec, a small water source, possibly dry at times. A bit further up, the route splits and the left (East) trail goes to Valentina Staniča hut, while the right (South), shorter trail goes to Kredarica hut, just under the final ridge to the summit.
Spending the night at one of these two huts makes the overall tour easier. You can commit to the next section in the afternoon of the 1st day or early morning the 2nd day. This 2-day option can be helpful if you don’t have a good 1-day weather window.
4. ferrata Kredarica hut – Triglav: 1h30min, 360m
The last section towards Triglav summit is a proper, well-secured, bi-directional via ferrata. The sign at the bottom says Zavarovana Plezalna Pot, which means Secured Climbing Route. Here it gets busy in high season, as the summit is a bucket list peak for many people and more trails converge below or on the final ridge.
Descent
Descent is on the same route or, in the lower part, you can use via ferrata Tominškova pot (B, 1) instead of Prag. Other combinations for a multi-day tour are also possible.
Good to know
- Don’t underestimate the overall difficulty of this long tour with exposed, unsecured sections
- The Aljaž Tower (Aljažev stolp) on the summit is a storm shelter
- Remains of the Triglav Glacier can be seen below the final ridge
- High chance to see wild animals on the way, such as Alpine ibexes
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Videos
Weather
Main sources
- we climbed the route on August 3, 2022
- bergsteigen.com – Prag route without the summit (German)
- bergsteigen.com – Tominškova route with the summit (German)